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Fast Tracks :: View topic - liquid flux
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liquid flux
https://fast-tracks.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=775
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Author:  hh660 [ Thu Nov 08, 2007 6:02 pm ]
Post subject:  liquid flux


Author:  emccamey [ Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:04 pm ]
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Author:  hh660 [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 12:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

thanks for the advice!
Stephen

Author:  rgmarsh [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 4:39 am ]
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Author:  sambear [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 1:56 pm ]
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Author:  Tim Warris [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 5:52 pm ]
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Hi Guys,

The flux I use is Kester's SP-30 acid flux. The main reason I recommend this type of flux is that modelers new to soldering rail to PC board will find it much easier when using an aggressive acid based flux. The downside to the easy soldering is that the flux residue must be removed completely. Fortunately this is pretty easy to do using a good stiff brush.

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When the soldering is complete I give the tops of the PC board a good scrubbing with one of these brushes until the copper foil is nice and shiny and all traces of flux are gone from the ties and the rail. This is good practice regardless of the type of flux being used as it will smooth out the solder joints and provide a good surface on the PC boards for paint to adhere to.

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This goes quick and does a great job. Follow this up with a quick cleaning with soapy water, this will remove any grit left over on the turnout from construction.

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Following these steps will ensure solder joints will stay strong for the long haul. I have turnouts over 15 years old built with acid flux and zero problems.

Painting the turnout will also create a barrier between any acid residue and oxygen, preventing corrosion.

That said, feel free to use any type flux desired, they will all work to some degree. Modelers new to soldering might find acid works well as it is quite aggressive when soldering rail to PC board ties, both of which are usually covered with oils and corrosion of some form, acid flux is aggressive enough to burn through all that.

I have been using the Supersafe gel flux lately and find it works quite well and is a good alternative to an acid flux if you are concerned about corrosion issues.

Author:  emccamey [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 6:46 pm ]
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One aspect of Tim's use of the acid flux is the ability to cut through the possible films of oil and some corrosion on the PC ties and/or rails.

It is always best to have the parts cleaned well with using any flux. On the PC ties, I always use a Dremel with a wire brush and polish off the PC tie top along the rail line where the solder will be. I also use a bright boy pad along the bottom of the rail bases. Then with the flux (I do use the Super Safe GEL), I find the soldering goes very well with these cleaned components.

For the high stress points I will also use the non-lead tin-silver solder. This is much stronger. However, the tin-silver solder also requires more heat and some practice with using it is important.

If you use the non-acid, still a post soldering clean up is recommended.

Author:  thomascb [ Thu Jan 10, 2008 10:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Flux

This subject may have been covered many times before but I will chime in anyway. I own a #8 Z scale jig and a friend loaned me his #6. The loaner has been so eaten by residual flux that you cannot get rail to fit hardly at all. I have cleaned and cleaned but the damaged was already done. He only built 25-30 turnouts is all. I am close to that quantity on my #8 but I clean it within a minute or less of pulling the turnout out of the jig. I really scrub it thoroughly. Additionally if I am building up a hand full of frogs I usually build them in pairs and between each pair the jig gets a scrub there as well. My jig looks like it is brand new. So, my point is that it would be VERY wise to pay very close attention to cleaning your jigs as well.

Tom in Dallas

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