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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 8:54 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:39 pm
Posts: 8
I need to build a #6 or #5 Double Slip. I downloaded the #4 and #6 templates from this site. I also have the various tools for forming frogs and point rails.

I thought about glueing the template, perhaps #6, to a pine board and trying to cut slots to allow placement of PCB ties. But beyond that I don't have any particular ideas about how to proceed as the instructions available on this site only cover use of a template and there isn't one available in O Scale and it would not be worth the investment for one double slip. I do however have the template/jig for a #5 O Scale turnout.

Anyway any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Jay Beckham
http://www.South-Shore-Line.com


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:48 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
Jay,

I've built a half-dozen double slips from only paper templates (in HO and S scales). Several of them from templates I had laid out on paper myself. This effort was well before the existence of FastTracks. I would recommend you chose a number 5, as that double slip can be built with reliability and not have to include center moving points at the oblique frogs (something generally desired for number 6, and required for the longer).

Drafting your template is an exercise in geometry. Draw out the center lines crossing at the 1:5 angle. Build in the rail head lines for the crossing alone first. Recognize the far frog point locations. Use a small sized (easily flexed) rail to construct the inside center slip routes - and use a gauge to mark the outside slip curves. Draw only the railheads (including the guards and wings).

Carefully glue the PC ties (just flush with the paper) necessary at the frogs and points hinge points as well as some mid supporting locations. Follow the general sequence of rails, as illustrated in the double slip instructions for the smaller scales. Use 3-point fixed and two-point roller styled gauges as you work the rails and solder to the PC ties.

Some guidelines and extra 'rules of thumb':
Keep the flangeways slightly LESS than the maximum - but don't narrow them excessively. Even with the use of the code 145 wheels popular for O scale, the flangewasy need mid-coordinate offset protection for chassis work, especially for a number 5 double slip. If you do use code 145 wheels, I'd recommend you set the frog flangeways at 0.071" +/- 0.002" and verify check gauge at 1.181" or slightly larger.

Be extra careful to have the frog points be very fine and sharp.

Use the hinged method for points, making certain to have hinged pivot throw bars at the ends.

Double check track gauge and the all important track check gauge alignments. Having a near dead tight track gauge and near but not exceeding flangeway will make for check gauge coherency very easily accommodated.

Finally - don't be afraid to learn, throw away and restart until you get it right. The cost is only a few PC ties and some rail along with your time - when you get it right, you'll be one proud papa!

-ed-

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:39 pm
Posts: 8
Ed

Thanks so much for your very detailed instructions. I certainly appreciate it and will take your advice and proceed with a drawing first. I do have all the frog and point tools so they should help a lot.

Jay Beckham


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