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| Soldering points for solid joint http://fast-tracks.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=958 |
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| Author: | DarylK [ Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Soldering points for solid joint |
I am building #10 turnouts. I am not sure weather to solder the closure rail to the S tie or not. In the instructions is says to solder the closure rail to the S tie. However, in the solid vs hinged joint video, it says that you like to keep the length of rail for flexing to 4 inches or so. The distance between the S tie and the throw bar on my #10 turnout jig is less than 2.5 inches. If I solder to the S tie, I think that will cause to much stress for the throw bar solder joint. Was there a mistake made on my jig? seems like the S tie should be 1.5 inches closer to the frog. In the videos, the H tie and S tie are fairly far apart. On my jig they are right next to each other. Daryl |
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| Author: | emccamey [ Fri Aug 21, 2009 10:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Soldering points for solid joint |
Daryl, The video shows using an HO fixture. With N scale the geometry is much shorter. How much flex is required is really more dependent on the rail size than a fixed distance. I personally prefer only fully hinged joints (both at the tie bar and the points to closure joint), but the continuious closure and points with soldered tie bar can work well enough with good soldering techniques. What size rail are you using? Would you consider hinging the tie bar with a pivot? How about considering hinging the point to the closure? There is yet another 'pseudo hinge' method at the points and closure that entails cutting the base and the head, leaving only the rail web to flex. This approach gives continuious flow, mechanical and electrical and dramatically reduces tension in the flexing. There's lots of way to make things 'fool proof'. -ed- |
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