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Fast Tracks • View topic - Soldering closure rail

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 Post subject: Soldering closure rail
PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:43 pm
Posts: 6
Hi all,
I'm new to MRR and then offcourse also to handlaying.
I have so far made 15 #6 switches that are not yet installed, but I have one thing that I have not decided yet.
I have made my switches as in the picture because I thought they are a bit stiff to switch if I solder in possition A
I put in an extra tie in possition B to make them a bit stronger.
Do you think this is strong enough or do you think I have to solder in position A as well?
If it's ok for #6 switch, Do you think I can use the same technique for a #8 switch.

-Per Eklund

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 6:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 4:02 pm
Posts: 52
You have two choices,
1. do as you say install and solder another pc tie, but position it between the frog and the tie that pivots the points (In other words the very next tie)
2. Use rail spikes on both sides of the rail (preferably brass spikes) and when you solder up the tie and rail, insure you also solder the spike to the rail side, Use expoxy
on the spike inserted into the pc tie.

Either will increase the strength of that Pivot point.

Rob


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:43 pm
Posts: 6
Thank you for the quick answer.
If I interpret your answer right, you think I'm safe with my solution.
In the printable template there ara two ties in position B and I have already added an extra tie there.
This feels ok for #6 switch, but #8 switch?

I will refrase the question to make it more clear.
What is the recomended maximum number of ties between the switch point (throwbar) and the pivoting point.
I like as long distance as possible to make the switching soft.

--Per


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
Per,

A lot depends on the rails you choose. Larger rails are stiffer. You also need to consider that flexing action will naturally occur somewhere about the mid point of the closure rails. If the flex draws out at certain spots enough that the gauge becomes affected and 'pinches' the wheel sets - you could have some reliability problems.

Generally, you would want the gauge to be well fixed and the flexing action to be rather narrowly allowed. You may want to examine the gauge carefully with your modification before settling on your technique.

Just some additional points to consider. I don't have these problems because I choose to make the pivoting points for all my turnouts and don't have continuous closure and point rails.

-ed-

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-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:04 am 
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