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Fast Tracks • View topic - My group uses HO throwbar in N turnouts. Should I too?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 6:43 pm 
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I belong to a group of talented N scale model railroaders. I have a lot of respect for their knowledge and judgment.

They have chosen to use the larger, HO-sized throwbar instead of what is prescribed for use with the standard N scale turnout jigs/kits. This results in a minor rearrangement of the ties.

One member told me that turnouts were too weak without the bigger throwbar.

In the interest of full disclosure, they've also had to modify some track cleaning practices. Aggressive use of bright boy abrasive cleaning bars seems to have popped some points off of their throwbars. No surprise there, but I wonder how much that may have influenced the decision to go to an HO throwbar.

Anyone using bigger throw bars on their N scale turnouts?

Any thoughts on track cleaning?

I am inclined to do everything the Fast Tracks way. In studying posts in this Forum, I see there is some misconception about some issues. For example, I've heard discussions about how the aluminum jig is a big heat sink problem, but I've read about that in this forum. Even a low wattage iron is fine when it has the right tip and the user has the right technique.

Let's discuss,
Strat


Last edited by Strat on Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 4:02 pm
Posts: 52
Well I don't believe that large a throwbar is needed, a wider one will increase the surface area thus solder strength, you do need to be careful cleaning regardless.

I use a throwbar on some turnouts that is wide as the space between the headties. Smooth all the contact surfaces. Its wider thus stronger and shouldn't give you a problem.

More important is the quality of the solder joint.

rob


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:05 am 
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Posts: 84
Hi Strat,

As an alternative you may want to consider using an HO narrow gauge PC board tie for the throw bar. It's a bit wider than the N scale ties and a bit narrower than the HO standard gauge ties. Check our website for the dimensions of each.

However, Rob's comment about making sure you have a quality solder joint between the switch points and throw bar cannot be overly emphasized.

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Customer Service - Fast Tracks HobbyWorks Inc.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 4:02 pm
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Strat,

One more item, I never use the bright boy track cleaners anymore, use a sanding sponge, made by 3m. they clean just as well without stratching the rail. To aid cleaning, place a few drops of wahl clipper oil, (a very dry oil like vermouth) that wont leave a greasy residue, but will cut through the oxidation. It will also leave a conductive film on the track that will retard further corrosion and oxidation. contact cleaner (Tv type does the same thing, only its more expensive.

Rob


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 2:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 1:32 pm
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Thanks for the tips.

Wahl clipper oil -- isn't that the subject of a very long/intense "religious" debate in our hobby?

The counter argument against Wahl I recall may have been that it actually ended up causing a bigger problem, perhaps by attracting dust/particles. Not sure if that's true.

I never heard anyone explain why Wahl oil works. The protective film idea certainly works on pots and switches.
I always have electrical contact cleaner and will give that a try. Radio Shack sells the stuff now.

Another comment about cleaning turnouts: it would seem safest to drag any cleaning device from the frog towards the points, avoiding the other direction, so as to avoid impacting/damaging the points.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:04 pm 
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Location: East Texas - USA
The Whal clipper oil is indeed a subject of debate. It's a very 'dry' oil, but like any oil, too much is too much. The key is that it should be a VERY thin application, usually a drop or two for the entire layout. The 'problems' experienced by many are usually traced to too much oil applied.

Another aspect is the wheels used on the rolling stock. Any plastic wheels will create far dirtier track than all metal wheels. Plastic wheels in concert with oil based products will just about guarantee dirty accumulation.

All cleaning 'swipes' as trailing point makes a lot of sense - especially if you are using any abrasive action. If application is with liquid chemical cleaners, then it's only the application method that needs to be controlled - and trailing point still makes sense.

-ed-

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-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


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