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| #6 Guard Rail Problem http://fast-tracks.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=202 |
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| Author: | jnorris [ Wed Aug 10, 2005 8:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | #6 Guard Rail Problem |
| Author: | Tim Warris [ Wed Aug 10, 2005 8:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
| Author: | rob [ Thu Aug 11, 2005 4:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | trucks riding guard rails? |
| Author: | jnorris [ Thu Aug 11, 2005 10:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | #6 Guard Rail Problem |
| Author: | Rob [ Fri Aug 12, 2005 2:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | code 55 |
| Author: | jnorris [ Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
| Author: | Rob [ Fri Aug 26, 2005 3:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | closure rail bending |
Hello, fellow handlayer, On the bend, the easiest way I've found to do this, is first mark the tick marks on the jig with a sharpie to high light it. I lay the whole point rail (after its filed to shape) right up to the wing rails of the frog in one piece. All the bends including those of the wing rails are done before soldering. How this goes is. after you shaped the points, dressed the rail, lay it in the jig, use a very fine tip sharpie pen (black preferred) and mark the locations of the bend center, (the two tick marks on the jig) and the end of the wing rails at the frog. I use a very sharp file, that they sell here in Anchorage as a fish hook file, its has almost a knife edge. its finer than most jewelers files I've seen, I groove the rail base on both sides of the mark (exactly at the mark) until the web base of the rail is grooved. Then taking needle nose pliers I grab the rail right at the bend, Just a 1/2 hair into the groove and bend it to match the jig, You'll be off a hair on the angle most of the time, and can adjust the rail at that point with your fingers. Double check the gauge using the NMRA gauge, I usually go pretty tight in this area and reduce the side to side slop the NMRA standard gauge allows. On the guard rails, I bend a 45 deg angle, and then file only the angle's rail base on the side where it interferes with the jig. Its going to be chemically colored rust and after painting and weathering one hardly notices the rail base is filed thin. This allow the guard rail to sit in the jig no matter how much you over bend it. Check the guard rail spacing with the NMRA guage for back to back clearance, and the bend for appearances (also for a smooth transition) You could also use the file to knick the rail base, (I use to do this but now I bend them by eye, I've been doing them that long) Lately I've held off soldering the frogs wing rails, I use another pc tie closer to the point of the frog and let the frog wing rails float until its time to solder them up. Of course at this point the turnout is out of the jig and in the fine tuning mode. There are two reasons for this, one I'm shortening the frog wing rails because I think they are too long (as NMRA wants them) and its easier to get the spacing eactly right when I use the gauge. The wings get soldered in and then the guard rails, this insures that there is very little play in the frog area. What I'm looking for is when the wheels truck on through that they track through the frog area without hunting side to side. I dont want to see the front wheels of the truck yank over by the guard rails when entering the frog, it should just smoothly track through without any sudden minute changes. It works for me. This tightened up specs require your wheel flanges and back to back spacing to be right on the money. You will see operation bloopers if the gauge starts getting out of specs on your wheel sets. Rob |
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| Author: | drt1255 [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
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