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 Post subject: New Kid on the Block
PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2005 8:05 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Bakersville, NC
Feel a bit like a fish out of water in the company of such impressive accomplishment. Returning to N scale after a 35 year absence and getting used to all the changes. 3 turnouts completed so far. Expect it will take four or five before I have it under control. Nevertheless, a CLASS ACT, and I am grateful that someone took the time to develope this method. Motive power and rolling stock that choked on Atlas #5 turnouts ran over these without a wimper!

Attached is a simple stand I use for holding the template so I can use clamps to secure the rail as I solder. The clamps are wide enough to cover gauged rail. Concerned about the throw bar width since I want to use a "stall" motor to control it and these require a rather stiff wire. Also I would like to know how thick the ends of points should be. The form tool gives me a hair width that is very fragile. How do you all handle this? I can see rounding the points - and the frog points as well, but to what dimension?

And finally, I was interested in the post about soldering brass wire to the points to provide a pivot connection to the throwbar. Was this for N gauge or a larger gauge? It would seem to be a significant feat in N gauge!


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 Post subject: points
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:33 am 
Thats me! the points with the wire, about a .016 wire will do, you might have to file after attachment, but just enough to clear the flanges, low pros won't be a problem. cut a groove in the point rail flange for the wire to fit in, then line up the P rail with the stock rail, mark the groove (hole) drill it out, do the same for the other side after installing one point. Should be stronger than just soldering the points to the throwbar.

Rob


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2005 8:05 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Bakersville, NC
Thanks, Rob! I'm going to try it. Sounds workable. Here is my first solution to using heavier gauge throwbar wires. The PC tie fits snuggly into a Code 80 rail connector. I insert it about 1/4", solder the two on the bottom. I can drill a 0.60" hole, using the upper flanges of the rail joiner to center the hole. After drilling, I cut the assembly so only about 1/4" of joiner remains. Perhaps not a solution for those rigorous about prototype. Pardon the photo. I'm not equipped for ultra closeups.


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