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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:28 pm 
While doing a little brainstorming, actually having coffee while waiting for some paint to dry, I thought of another possible alternative to connecting the points to the throwbar.

The idea is to cut a square or rectangle of brass as wide as the throwbar, solder it to the bottom of the point rail, I use throwbars a scale foot wide. The brass should extend under the stock rail to act as a bearing, (note brass takes the chemical weathering better than copper does)

The brass should also extend towards the center of the throwbar. Not all the way however.

Then after soldering the heel of the point rails you would place the actual throwbar underneath the new brass tabs connected to the points. You would then drill a hole inbetween the point rails through the brass tabs into the throwbar, (after you checked the point spacing mind you) the hole should be far enough away not to interfere with flanges but be close enough not to pose any problems with flexing. On the same thought the brass rectangle should be thick enough not to flex.

You would then remove the throwbar, using the holes as a guide redrill slighltly larger holes in the throwbar so the wire pivots without binding.

Replace the throwbar, fishing the wire through the new holes. Then solder the wire on the top of the brass rectangle. Turn the turnout over, you can either bend, or solder a separate square of brass (with another hole drilled in it) to act as a retainer.
Although I dont see the rails lifting up if they are soldered at the heel. It would be a preventive measure.

Now the turnout will pivot at the holes, the brass rectangle is soldered to the bottom of the point rail (about a scale foot long) and the pivot wire should take the stress off the solder joint. The brass will act as a bearing surface under both stock rails and will stay black better than copper will.

The difference between this a the wire connected to the point rail, is on soldering the wire, you have to use a pretty small wire so it doesn't interfere with flanges on legacy locomotives and rolling stock. Its also easier to guage the point rails while laying out the hole locations. This is just an idea, I haven't tried it yet, but if I do I will post some photos.

I plan on making a testing machine of sorts that will envolve using a electric motor to actuate the points continously to test the reliability of both the wire method and the later one just described.

Hopefully after I finish this custom order I'll get it.. What I will do is let it run until I get a failure from the throwbar (if I get one)

The other is appearance, so far I like the wire method, its less visable, matter of fact almost invisable, the other method the throwbar will be recessed somewhat lower than the head ties, depending on the thickness of the brass rectangles you used. Then you going to have these little points from the brass wire showing up on top of the brass rectangle tabs. But painted I imagine they won't be too noticable.


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