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 Post subject: #7 slips
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 1:26 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2011 12:34 am
Posts: 2
hi guys
Does fast tracks have plans to make a #7 slip. If so how far away from relase. Here in australia its a very common frog angle
cheers luke


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 Post subject: Re: #7 slips
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 4:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 6:31 am
Posts: 190
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Common where?

In 1:160 scale or 1:1 scale?

The owners come from Canada and have made these jigs mainly for the US market, which is why they have made the current range. The range has been expanded over the years as customer demand dictated. However, not everything asked for has or can be created. I have enquired about a couple of custom fixtures, but they replied and said that they had tried something similar and it just didn't work from an engineering perspective.

If you really want a #7, then you may have to hand lay it. There are product and videos on the site to show you how it's done. Don't ask me for help, as I haven't tried it.

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 Post subject: Re: #7 slips
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 9:52 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
A number 7 slip would need the center moving points at the crossing (like the number 8 has). In fact, the number 6 would benefit with greater reliability also with center moving points. Model flageways and clearances have requirements for angular reliability tracking much quicker than the prototype.

Hand laying one, takes patience and attention to details. Two biggest issues are being practiced with hinged points (really important with slips) and determining the point movement mechanism(s) - especially at the center points. Both these issues have proven solutions and only require some practice to master.

With N scale the issue will also be the rail choice. Slips have some narrow and tight clearances, choosing smaller rail will be a big benefit.

-ed-

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-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


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 Post subject: Re: #7 slips
PostPosted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 11:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 17, 2011 12:34 am
Posts: 2
Thanks for your reply guys. The victorian railways laid lots of #7.52 turnouts and slips. Im happy to use #7 in my layout its close enough for me. I plan to use code 55 for main and 40 in the yard.


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 Post subject: Re: #7 slips
PostPosted: Fri Feb 18, 2011 5:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 6:31 am
Posts: 190
Location: Melbourne, Australia
I can perfectly understand wanting to be prototypically correct. My view is that you have three main options:

#1 Ask for a custom fixture to be made. If it can be done, expect a time delay and a price premium.

#2 Use #8 turnouts. If you click here and then click "Specifications", you will se that the #8 turnout has a divergence angle of just over 7 degrees. Then click here. This is a 14 degree crossing that is close enough to use with the #8 turnouts. You could use this fixture as the basis of your #8 double or single slips.

#3 Hand lay everything. It's probably the only way you will get the #7.52 turnouts and slips.

Hope this helps.

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 Post subject: Re: #7 slips
PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2011 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 6:31 am
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
If you do decide to use the #8 crossing as the basis for an N guage double slip, you may find this template of a #8 HO double slip of some use. Simply reduce it using Microsoft Paint to N scale proportions so you have a guide on hand laying a double slip.

Hope this helps.

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 Post subject: Re: #7 slips
PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2011 5:34 pm
Posts: 1
If its of any help they do produce #8 double slip fixtures, they are a bit tricky though so you have to ask for them and I would not recommend using anything larger then c40 rail.

Here is a link to our club page where I posted a few pictures of the fixture and how I built the switch.

http://www.slamra.se/index.php?option=c ... kt&lang=en

I made a few changes and choices, first I decided not to use hinged points, due to this I had to separate the movement of the 4 points on each side of the switch.
The end result is a switch with 12 points and 6 throwbars.

Further modifications that are not mentioned in the article is shortening the points somewhat, this was to ensure better separation of polarity in the switch.

Regards
/Leo


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