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Fast Tracks • View topic - Wiring powered frog with Tortoise

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:19 pm 
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Can anyone provide a photo, drawing or the same via an on-line link?

My Fast-Tracks turnouts are conventionally built with an isolated frog, continuous point-closure rails and I'll be using DCC.

Yes, I have the instruction sheet but can't read an electrical schematic. (I also use terminal strips so an illustration of where the wires go allows me to wire to and from the terminal strip in a neat and orderly way.)

Mostly I need to know what contact number the wire from the frog goes to and the two wires from track power. I've already wired up my toggle switch to the outer two contacts and will be using a separate DC power supply for the switch motor. I assume the internal contacts will switch the track polarity.

Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:10 pm 
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Sure can!

Image

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Fast Tracks
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:55 pm 
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Tim: That is awesome! That was exactly what I was looking for!

Thanks much!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:29 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
As I am yet to purchase any Tortoise switches, is it safe to assume that the coloured wiring in the image is the same as is on the switch motor?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 11:21 pm 
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I don't believe that the Tortoise switch machines comes with any wiring. Just a PC board connector that you can solder to.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:45 am 
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Location: Oklahoma City, OK
You can solder directly to the machines PC board, or for a little extra cost get a edge connector and solder to that and slip it onto the switch machine. That way you are not damaging the PC connection, and if needed the machine can be disconnected for replacement or trouble shooting as needed very easily.

Have fun, and enjoy the hobby, it ain't supposed to be more work than fun.

Kurt

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SP was king of the road, Cotten Belt will run forever! D&RGW will rule the hills!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:39 am 
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JDM:

I'm not sure what you're asking but the outside two wires are the motor wires and as you'll note they are wired to the toggle to reverse direction with a sepeate power supply. (If you use less then the 12 volts specified they will quiet down.)

As to the edge connectors, Circuitron offers them but they are a might expensive. I know a guy that takes commercial ones and cuts them in half and sells them to me for a few bucks a peice. I just glue a piece of plastic on the cut end to keep it from sliding. Like mentioned above the edge connectors are nice in case you need to make any changes. Also, if you don't use an edge connectors and you are distracted like looking at a pretty girl while you're soldering you could get too much heat on the contacts. LOL

The Tortoii are expensive but they are really the best product available if you need remote control of your turnouts with stall motor and extra contacts for signaling, LED's etc. You can get quantity discounts. However, I highly recommend using a slightly large diameter throw wire than what is supplied.

I recently had a scenario in which I couldn't get the Tortoise under a turnout so with some guidance from helpful folks like you on the internet I laid it on its side with the throw in direct line to the turnout throw bar. See photo. As you can see I buried a brass tube in my sub roadbed and ran a .025 (smaller than usual) piece of music wire through that. The wire bends up at a 90 degree angle throughthe turnout throw bar hole. Also, a Z bend is used at the other end because without it the throw is too long and would eventually damage the turnout. It works like a charm. This turnout is part of a crossover and I plan on wiring it in tandem by just using one toggle. Yes, circuitron offer a linkage but it involves about 40 some steps and still needs room for related hardware.


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tortoisezbend_0001.jpg
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 11:18 am 
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Glad to see the 'Z' bend worked well for that side mounting.

One really needs to have a terminal block close to the Tortoise machine. It's not any real problem to solder the eight wire pigtails to the PC connector directly and then hook up to the terminal block. You don' t need the rather expensive slip on connector, as the pigtails are not any more trouble to disconnect from the terminal and handle the Tortoise in the event of necessary exchange or realignments. Soldered connections at the Tortoise connector will give no chance of long term electrical connection problems. Firm attachment of the wires to the terminal block works well.

In the installed base of layouts, the Tortoise machiens have a reported failure of about single digits per 1,000. They are rugged and reliable. Seldom, if ever, except maybe improper installation will a unit go bad. You could of course ruin one with improper voltage feed to the motor, or mis-wiring of the contacts connections.

Sometimes we make too much ado about nothing.

-ed mccamey-

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 3:05 pm 
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I agree Ed, a terminal strip nearby works and I do use those too. <G>


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 2:02 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Thanks for the replies, I'm still learning.

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