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| Track Building question http://fast-tracks.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=870 |
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| Author: | hoborob [ Mon Jun 02, 2008 8:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Track Building question |
I am now getting more into actually hand building the track itself. I have a couple of questions that may or may not have been answered before. The first is how does one determine the proper location for the first rail in relation to the intended centerline of the track and/or is there a tool made to help set this alignment up? Second I am experimenting with simply soldering the rail ends together rather than using joiners so the question is what are your thoughts or comments about this? |
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| Author: | emccamey [ Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
For regular running track, I always have at least a second rail loosely held with a 3-point gage in place and center the rails on the ties. I'm only spiking down and securing the one main rail, the second one is but a short cut off of several inches to help with the visual aligning. When the final second rail is secured, the track is quite well centered and aligned. Another trick is to take a PC tie the exact length of your wood ties, carefully cut and file out notches on the edge for the rail heads so that the rails are correctly centered (like a two-point gage - but with a tie length bar). This really helps to get the rails directly centered on the ties. I use rail joiners - but not soldered. I think that the movement of the roadbed due to expansion and contraction will necessitate allowing movement in the rails - otherwise it will become kinked. The rail joiners are important mechanical means of holding rail end alignment. I use the very small ME joiners to keep everything nice and tight - but longitudinal movement is allowed for expansion and contraction. I usually leave about 0.010" at the joints when laying the rail. I also will not have normal joints directly across from one another. I do cut electrical power block gaps directly across. This method will require that every rail has electrical drops attached - but thats the only really reliable means of power anyway. These are my thoughts and methods - others will have varying views. |
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| Author: | jdm_com_au [ Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
I'm actually in the process of getting a jig made, so that the ties and rails are aligned and don't move whilst being affixed. I'm just getting a straight section made first and then depending on cost, I may get some jigs made for various radii. Obviously there is only so many radii that can be made, but lots of people have been getting away with using set track for 50 years. 
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| Author: | sambear [ Thu Jun 05, 2008 4:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
I had a friend build me a jig using aluminum to get the rails correctly parallel. As for the ties, it will be a little tougher to keep the rails centered, but (even in the prototype) nothing is ever perfect. |
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| Author: | hoborob [ Sun Jun 08, 2008 5:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
Thanks for the relpies so far. The next question revolves around how many spikes to use and how many ties should get them? |
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| Author: | emccamey [ Sun Jun 08, 2008 10:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
Always spike both rails on the same tie. I use two spikes on each rail - a total of four on a tie. There is not enough room generally to do more spikes on a rail since our spikes are generally considerably larger than prototypes. But even the prototypes mostly used only two spikes per tie plate. If you were to spike the rails on different ties, you'll end up getting a wavering gage. It's sufficient to spike about every 5th or 6th tie generally on running track. On tighter curves, you may want to go about every 4th tie. Leading up to the points of a turnout and following the two diverging routes after the frog you'll want to spike every tie for two or three ties, then every other one a few times before then skipping 3 or 4 and doing the running track pattern. -ed- |
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| Author: | sambear [ Wed Jun 11, 2008 12:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
I wonder if one could solder straight rails parallel? As for now, in my awareness, I can not remember if there was a jig has been made for a 36" length of rail to be soldered with pc ties to hold the rails parallel before adding wood ties and spikes. Such type of this jig could prove very beneficial with tie spacings and rail grooves cut in for proper look and hold. To save on aluminum, some of the bar could be removed in its middle, so that three points hold the two sides together. Does anyone already offer something like this? |
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| Author: | emccamey [ Wed Jun 11, 2008 7:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
Just use one of the turnout fixtures - but use just regular ties and align along the straight side of the turnout. LIft and shift along. You'll get perfectly staight regular track if you are careful to alighn it and keep some previous soldered in the fixture as you advance along. -ed- |
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| Author: | jdm_com_au [ Thu Jun 12, 2008 5:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
| Author: | sambear [ Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:29 am ] | ||
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question | ||
Longest fixture I have is a #10 turnout. I put together a quick drawing to better illustrate my thoughts and help determine if such a jig does exist already. The grey area is the aluminum plate, ties and rails are grooved into it. The jig could be 18 inches (45 centimetres) long and as like the Fast Tracks' crossover jig, the ends could match to allow for correct tie spacing as it moves along or if two such jigs were butted together.
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| Author: | jdm_com_au [ Fri Jun 13, 2008 1:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
That is virtually what I am currently trying to organise to get made. The machinist I spoke to said the aluminium needed to be at least an inch wider than the length of the ties, so he had somewhere to clamp the aluminium to. Why is there an area in the middle that has been removed? |
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| Author: | sambear [ Mon Jun 16, 2008 12:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
I was thinking of saving some aluminum when I drew up the diagram. The area removals may not to be the case if those areas provided more strength and build options. I am hoping Fast Track will look at something like this, especially in an 18" segment, but I imagine they are flooded with ideas and will need time to make a decision to determine if this device is worth the investment. |
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| Author: | jdm_com_au [ Wed Jun 18, 2008 12:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would also prefer fast Tracks to make something like this, and in various radii as well. If they don't, then I'm off to my local machinist. |
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| Author: | sambear [ Wed Jun 18, 2008 11:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
The accuracy of Fast Tracks has my hopes pinned on them to build straight, even curved, rail fixtures for handlaid track. The precision, creativity, and determination to make correct fixtures has left them as an industry standard in my thoughts. |
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| Author: | rdressel [ Wed Jun 25, 2008 4:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Track Building question |
Centering ties? easy, get a piece of track- rails and ties (Atlas or Micro Eng will do fine) and place it either on or over the ties that are laid. Once rail number 1 is done, gauge the other. Rob |
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