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Fast Tracks • View topic - resistance soldering questions

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 4:36 pm 
Is there any big advantage of using the resistance soldering method over a 35W iron? I am not so much intereseted in speed, but quality/durability. Especially in the switch points and frog area. The few turnouts I have made all have good appearance, wheelsets and railcars flow thru them smoothly. I have soldered a point to a piece of PC tie and then tried to force it loose by hand. It can be done, but takes a lot of force - risking a finger cut if you are not careful.

I do not knowingly have a problem with solder joints, just investigating other possibilities.

If the resistance equipment if better, what brands/models are there to choose from and which one(s) are easy to use and handle? Cost?

Thanks all


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 7:32 am 
I use an American Beauty unit to solder rail to PC tie stock for both general track laying and for building turnouts in Tim's fixtures. It is much faster than using an iron because the heat is significantly more localized. I've found this advantageous because surrounding areas are not heated as much as they would be by using a soldering iron.

Some adjustment is required to get the amount of heat "just right". Too much heat and the rail will "burn" and the copper will delaminate from the backing. Too little heat and the joint takes too long to heat, which could effect adjacent joints, and/or cause copper delamination.

As far as strength is concerned... I think a good solder joint with either method will be equally strong (it is a chemical reaction that forms the bond). The key is that it is a "good" joint, which requires proper surface preparation and good soldering technique (which is very easy).

If you are interested in a stronger joint, I'd say stick with using an iron for the reason stated above. It is certainly much more cost effective than a resistance unit (which have become very expensive). However, there are most definitely huge benefits to owning and using the resistance unit. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't own one, hasn't used one, or can't figure out how to use the one they own.

It is truly one of the most valuable tools I own and I almost guarantee that you won't be disappointed if you acquire one for yourself...

Jeff


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2005 12:49 pm 
Thanks for the input on resistance soldering. I was searching for the American Beauty unit on the web. I located their site and called about the system. They ARE pricey, but from all that have them that have written in various forums they appear to be really good. At the present time American Beauty has an abundance of DEMO UNITS that were replaced in the field with current models. They said the only difference was the visual appearance, all internals are the same. They are going to offer them on their website in October, but anyone can call and order them now at a BIG 50% discount from retail prices. All have been refurbished as needed and have a one year warranty.

I have one ordered. Anyone - what is a good starting point on wattage, what is the best electrode to use, and do you still use the acid paste flux with the acid core solder? I think I can figure all this out, but a nudge in the right direction always helps.

Thanks


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 Post subject: resistance soldering...
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 7:08 am 
Hi,

The wattage used for soldering rail depends on the capacity of your unit (100W or 250W) and rail size. I use about 40% on my 250W unit, which is about 100W as a starting point. You can easily solder rail with less wattage, so don't worry if you have a 100W unit. The key is being able to solder quickly without overheating (burning) your rail and PC tie stock.

Best advice... Use some scrap rail in the size(s) you will be using, and practice soldering it to some sacrificial PC stock. Start with 50-65W, and move up or down from there.

For soldering rail... I use the tweezers, nothing else. The pliers can take more heat, but they are too cumbersome, and just too big. You don't need their heat capacity anyway. I've never used the "iron" attachment, but I think it wouldn't be that much different than using a regular soldering iron. If someone else has more experience with it, and likes it, please speak up!

I don't use acid flux/solder. I use rosin paste flux and 0.020" diameter silver bearing solder (available at any Radio Shack). It works well enough, but I would like to try the acid fluxed solder, if only to see if it is any better.

Enjoy your resistance unit!! It is a great tool to have... Good luck!

JeffB


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 Post subject: resistance soldering
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 4:58 pm 
I finally got to try out the American Beauty system. It is wonderful, easy to use, and takes less time/solder than an iron. I could not force the joint to separate between scrap rail and pcb ties. The only thing I need to "fix" is that the tweezers tend to move the rail a little and I can't put the downward pressure on the rail with them. Does anyone have any input on this, or am I trying the wrong technique?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:07 pm 
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 Post subject: resistance soldering
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:20 pm 
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