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 Post subject: notched stock rails?
PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2005 4:26 pm 
In HO scale is it recommended to or not to notch the stock rails at the switch points, especially on the #6 and smaller turnouts? I have seen pro's and con's to this in other forums and do not want to remake others mistakes any more than necessary. The points I have made are to a sharp point, just short of breaking thru the web (I actually can see the impression of the rail base and rail head showing thru on some), then removing the railhead on the wheel side of the rail, tapered back about 1/8" to 3/16", followed by a slight tweaking of the point so it fits flush with the stock rail. This description of how I do the points may not be the best way, so if anyone has a suggestion for my improvement please let me know. I use the Point Form tool for ALL points and frogs, then handfit them with very minimal effort. I have only made a few, so a change of attack now would not be very difficult.

Thanks in advance for any tips, etc.


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 Post subject: Notched Stock Rails
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2005 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2005 11:10 am
Posts: 1
There are probably as many ways to do it as there are persons building turnouts. Tim doesn't recommend notching the railhread of the stock rail but you do need to notch the base of the rail, at least. Personally I notch the base and railhead of the stock rails down to the web for about 1" and then taper it out towards the frog, and find it works well. I also use the mill file on the inside edge of the point rail and file the edge of the railhead down to the web tapering it back about 1/2" or a bit more. This creates a really sharp point that fits into the notch really well.

I'd say give it a try with a few different methods and stick with what you like best.

Craig Bisgeier


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