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 Post subject: Wiring DC vs DCC?
PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2010 4:07 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 9:25 am
Posts: 6
Returning to this after a twenty year gap (sic) and I'm a little confused.....
What is the difference in preparing a turnout for DC vs DCC?
Have I missed something (I've never considered making my own track before) and am a little confused over the wiring too - my brain shuts down when I think about "electricity" - I have no idea why.........

Thanks, Pete.


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring DC vs DCC?
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 3:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 07, 2004 11:22 pm
Posts: 311
Location: Port Dover, Ontario
Hi,

The answer to that question is quite involved, and I suspect that is why there hasn't been any responses to your question. What I would suggest it that you check out some of the numerous publications that are available on DCC, they will cover the distinctions between the two in much more detail that what could be shown here.

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Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
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 Post subject: Re: Wiring DC vs DCC?
PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2006 8:40 pm
Posts: 12
Pete.
Try this link. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm
Here is another good one. http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm
Look around both sites and enjoy.
Welcome back.
Pete

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 Post subject: Re: Wiring DC vs DCC?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 5:57 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2010 9:25 am
Posts: 6
Thank you guys!
I understand the difference between the old DC and DCC I just wasn't sure why there would be a difference in the wiring for points - I guess I have more homework to do....

Best, Pete.


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 Post subject: Re: Wiring DC vs DCC?
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:32 pm
Posts: 2
As far as turnouts go there is absolutely no difference between DC and DCC. If you have a turnout that has an insulated frog then it literally is plug and play. The manufacturer has done all the work for you as far as eliminating the areas that cause short circuits when points are thrown or wheels bridge gaps.

Turnouts with metal frogs require extra effort on your part to eliminate the short circuit areas or to wire it. Also manufacturers differ on the level of "help" they offer the modeler in the design of their turnouts.
For example:
- Atlas provides help by insulating the frog from the rest of the track as well as give you a way to attach power to the frog.
- Peco does nothing like that, their "Electrofrog" turnouts have no insulating means in place for the frog, you have to "create" the electrical isolation of the frog. Also the way Peco has installed the jumper wires underneath is an electrical short waiting to happen as soon as the points are thrown.

But their are very simple ways to get around the turnouts that don't have any electrical isolation engineered into them.
1. Gaps need to be cut in the closure rails (rails leading to the frog from the switch points) Fast Tracks has an excellent video that shows you where.
2. Next (and this is where some more differences arise depending on the manufacturer of the turnout) you need to gap the rails after the frog. Since Fast Track, essentially, has a solid rail throughout the entire frog you will need to either gap the rails immediately after the frog or put in an insulated rail joiner. For pre-made turnouts it is much easier to just install an insulated rail joiner or no rail joiner at all and just leave a gap, but then you may run into a problem with rail alignment or gauge if you use no joiner at all.
3. You will need to provide a reliable electrical connection to the closure rails because you should never rely on the points to make a good enough electrical connection. For Fast Tracks it is already done for you with the PC Board ties. For pre-made turnouts you will need to solder a wire between the closure rail and its corresponding stock rail - i.e. the closest stock rail to the closure rail.
4. You will also need to have a switched electrical supply to make sure the correct polarity is being provided to the frog depending on the points. This is usually done with a switch machine, either electrical or manual provided the machine has switch contacts built into it, or other means used for throwing a switch - ground throws and so forth.

I believe that is all that is needed to make a turnout with an all metal uninsulated frog DC or DCC friendly. Believe me its harder to explain then it is easier to do - I did 15 Peco Electrofrog turnouts in a night and I have had no problems with them. The only other thing I can recommend is to get a multimeter to test for shorts or good continuity. Hope this helps out.


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