Fast Tracks

Hello all,

I am trying to make an HO scale roller coaster, and subsequently will have some relatively extreme rail bends and stresses. The rail I bought from the local hobby store came with plastic ties, but these didn't hold up to the small bend radius i needed on the turns, peaks and troughs of the track and eventually broke. What I need is a HO scale tie that will hold up to more stress than is probably typical in model railroads.

I purchased a rail bender from hand laid tracks and am able to achieve the curves I need in what looks like a precise and repeatable fashion. The ties I've found on the same site (http://www.handlaidtrack.com/ho-scale-p ... p-3782.php) look like they may be able to hold up to my application. So, I guess my questions are as follows:

1) Does anyone know if the ties (http://www.handlaidtrack.com/ho-scale-p ... p-3782.php) would be strong enough to handle the stress of tight turns and add a significant amount of support to the overall track?

2) It looks like those ties are soldered to the rail, which reassures me that the bond is strong and will be able to hold up. Is this the case?

3) Does anyone have any experience doing something of this nature? If so, any advice is appreciated. Also, if this has been discussed before, if you could post a link to the thread I would be grateful.

4) Finally, are there any other products that I need beside the ties and rail to make this that as a newcomer I would not be aware of?

Any help is appreciated!

Regards,
Loren

Loren,

First, you'll have to bend and align the rails - then solder the rails to the PC ties. It will be a bit tricky to do each rail separately and get them to match so you'll have the track gage exactly - but I think with some practice and patience you'll get it done. There is no stress at all once the rails are all prebent. This will make a VERY substantial strong structural construction.

One issue will be the vertical (up and down) curves. The rail bender won't to those quite as well or smoothly. This because the rail head and the rail base are much different and really sharp vertical curves will tend to kink or twist when bending. One way to get around that would be to use "Bull Head" rail. This is rail that is used in Europe and especially the UK and comes in most of the nice modeling sizes. Bull Head rail has a base and a rail head that the same width (it is mounted in 'chairs' in prototype and model practice). You'd have to order up the Bull Head rail from one of the UK suppliers - it will be a bit costly for shipment, and will take awhile to get delivered.

Very interesting project. Getting the cars constructed and actually working with a gravity flow will be a tremendous challenge. Getting weights, proper momentum, and speed control will exercise engineering and modeling skills to some limits!

Keep us posted on your progress.
-ed-

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

As Ed posted, the main problem will be the up and down bends. The bends required at the top of the crest will be harder than the bends at the bottom, due to the larger base of the rail. Unless of course if you use bull head rail as Ed suggested. The left and right bends shouldn't be a problem.

One thing to remember is that the hobby shop probably sold you code 100 or code 83 rail.` This means the height of the rail is either 0.100" or 0.083". Fast tracks make assembly jigs in HO scale for rail as small as code 55 (0.055" tall). The smaller rail will be much easier to bend. The limiting factor will be the flanges on the wheels of the roller coaster. The larger the flanges, the larger the rail code will be needed. If you use a rail code too small, the wheel flanges will hit on the ties and solder joints. I'm sure Ed will be able to post up a link on how to measure the flanges accurately, thereby determining the minimum rail code you require.


Hope this helps.

_________________
Now waiting for a better currency exchange rate before I order.

thanks for the advice guys. I've tried bending tight up and down curves with the rail with what looks like successful results despite the head and base of the rail being two different widths. I can definately see the benefits of using the bullhead form factor, and will hopefully be ordering some of that later this week if the price isn't too outlandish.

Can you guys suggest a supplier in which i could buy the bullhead track and ties from? Otherwise i'll just have to look on the net.

Also, concerning the code I had intended on using code 100. A larger flange on the wheel seems like it would provide less chance of derailment around tight corners. Also I will attempt to bank the corners to further decrease the likelihood of derailment.

Again, thanks for the posts guys, they've been really informative! If there is anything other advice you have please mention it.

Regards,
Loren