Fast Tracks

I'm ready to try my first #8 double slip. As I review the jig and the template, I have two questions. First, are there specific instructions for the slip? The instructions I received in the shipment of the jig was then same as for a turnout. Secondly, I understand why the points have to be hinged, however, can I hinge them using a rail joiner instead of the spikes? What's the tradeoff between the two hinge methods.

Thanks

Russ

Russ,

The double slip documentation UG05 "Building Double Slips - #8 and Larger" has additional instructions and steps for the double slips. Using cut off rail joiners (to minimize the sizes) is fine, but you have to align the hinged joints at wooden ties and relieve the tie with a small notch just a bit for the joiner to keep from having a hump. Be careful that the joiner is just small enough to not rest on a PC tie at the closure rail end, or you'll get a hump there.

-ed-

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

I hope the Double Slip is not your first build in a Fast Tracks jig. Normally they recommend the DS's for experienced hand laid track workers. Good luck anyway. Let us know how it comes out.

Kurt

_________________
Kurt Konrath

SP was king of the road, Cotten Belt will run forever! D&RGW will rule the hills!

I've been meaning to get back to you on the #8 double slips, but other priorities intervened. I have built five so far and they seem to go very well, although time consuming. I have soldered the long points to the throw bar without problems and used screws on the small points. I've used rail joiners instead of spiking the point pivot, again without problems. The Microengineering rail joiner (I'm in code 70) fits nicely between the PC ties, so there is no issue with a bump.

The only problems I've had are a tightness in the frog guard rails that I had to relieve and I wish someone had mentioned that if you use a PC tie for a throw bar and tap it for the small point screws, you need to cut the PC foil on the bottom side as well as the top. I chased myself around the room a couple of times on that.

Sure look great to me!

Good point about gapping the PC board ties on the bottom as well as the top if inserting a screw through the board.

Thanks for posting the image, its going to look great when it is all painted up and ballasted.

_________________
Cheers!

Tim Warris
Fast Tracks
http://www.fast-tracks.net
service@fast-tracks.net