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Forum locked This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 7 posts ] 
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 Post subject: STOPGAPS
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:30 pm
Posts: 4
Location: New Castle, DE
I PURCHASED THE JEWELERS SAW AND BLADES ALONG WITH A TRACK BUILDING KIT FOR A #4 HO TURNOUT. I ALSO PURCHASED THE STOPGAPS TO PUT IN THE GAPS I CUT IN MY FINISHED TURNOUT. THE STOPGAPS DO NOT FIT INTO THESE GAPS. DO I NEED A THICKER BLADE OR SHOULD I TRY TO FILE THE RAIL TO MAKE THEM FIT?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Santiago, CHILE
Hi Wally:

The stop gaps are used when you cut the rails with a ceramic disk to fill the cut...(you loose 1 mm of rail) but if you use a jeweler's saw, the cut is really small you do not need to fill it.

The stop gaps have a cosmetic function (visual and bump efect), not a electric function, because the rails are soldered.

Of course the jeweler's saw is the best choice.

Keep in rails
Claudio

P.D. sorry about my bad english

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Keep in rails
Claudio


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 Post subject: Stopgaps
PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:30 pm
Posts: 4
Location: New Castle, DE
Hi Cludio,

Thank you for your reply. I guess I'll stick with the small gaps created with the jewelers saw and won't fill in the gaps. Got Stopgaps, will not use!!

Wally


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Santiago, CHILE
Wally:

If you have a track fixed in your layout (painted and ballasted), and you need isolate a rail, you can't use the saw, then use the disk to cut the rail and use your stopgaps :D.

Keep in rails
Claudio

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Keep in rails
Claudio


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:06 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:51 pm
Posts: 10
I have a question concerning the gaps made by the jeweler's saw. Do these need to be insulated because of expansion due to humidity? Or are they stabilized because of the soldering method of construction (vs. spikeing)? My basement is subject to pretty large changes in humidity, and I have had some movement on regular track situations in the past.

Stephen


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Santiago, CHILE
Stephen:

The humidity do not produce metal expansion, only temperature changes.

Of course is better the solder method vs. spikeing.

If you want 100% safe, you can make thin "stopgaps" with stirene sheet and fix it with CA cement.

Keep in rails
Claudio

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Keep in rails
Claudio


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 2:51 pm
Posts: 10
Thanks for the reply, Claudio. I agree that the humidity won't expand the metal, I was wonderining if the humidity, which does affect my plywood and homosote base considerably, would be transfered to the turnout assembly. Maybe the Fast Track turnout would act independly if not fastened too securely to the homosote? Almost like an bond break of sorts.
I'll find out....

Stephen


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