Fast Tracks

I have started to work with my P-B-L resistance soldering station and I have some work that went well and also poor with these tweezers.

I was working on a #10 Fast-Tracks turnout, and at times the tweezers (at 60W) worked beautifully, but a couple of times the solder never moved.

I did tap the solder to flatten it, and put it along the tie, under the rail. Now, with these tweezers, do I just touch the rail, or do I try to touch the rail and the tie as well, and maybe the wire too? Also, do I add the flux before putting the solder (flattened) down or after? Seemed like it got very sticky and may have dried out when I left on the tie before flattening the solder wire. Perhaps I waited too long.

Any advice is appreciated.

_________________
"Life is about learning"

Hi sambear,

Check several things.

The PC tie and the bottom of the rail must be clean, good heat and flux just won't overcome any 'residuals' at the joint. As you flatten the solder and handle - don't transfer oils and junk to the solder slivers. Clean is important.

The flux should go on last - needs no more than an minute (preferably less) to do it's action, and should still be 'runny like' when the heat is applied. If you are doing a lot of joints - wait for the flux to be applied - it will wick up into the joint.

You do want the rail and the PC tie to heat. If you are tweezing the rail with pressure down, then it should conduct - but with the solder flat pre-installed, you may need to touch both the base of the rail and the PC tie for assured heating.

Hold the heat until the flux does 'bubble off' and the solder is liquid.

Practice - Clean - Practice - Enjoy!

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

Ed, I agree the problem was that I put the Supersafe flux down on the ties too early, before I started the work to flatten the solder wire. The flux started to dry and get very sticky. I may back away from flattening the wire.

Cleaning the tweezers is another issue, I am use sanding to do it and hopefully that will work.

The scariest thought I had, at first, was I wondered if that this station may not the best for completing a turnout. Now I think I am much better, this station will do the job, definitely practice does help as mentioned.

Curious, I may still have problem when trying to use the tweezers in places where there is no room (guard rails, frog point rails, etc.)? So far, I had to go back to the Weller to complete the work in these tiny areas.

Advice, as always, is excellent!!

_________________
"Life is about learning"

sambear,

For cleaning the tips (and also with the regular soldering iron tips), I use a wire bristle "card file" brush. This does a good job and I would think, less abrasive on the tips. Be sure and use a wet sponge when you do soldering with an iron to keep the excess off. The resistance tweezer tips should not collect excess solder as their alloy shouldn't allow solder to 'stick'.

For those 'tight' locations, spread the tweezer tips out just a bit less than the PC width and place along one side that's accessible where they touch the rail base and the PC tie, the heat generated will be well enough to transfer across the base underneath.

Practice - Practice - Enjoy!

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

What is a wire bristle "card file" brush? Is it a wire brush with the dimensions of a playing card?

_________________
"Life is about learning"

sambear,

A "Card File" should have been "File Card" - is a standard machinist term for a square like stiff bristle brush (usually brass bristles) used for cleaning files in metal work. The bristles have a kinked angle near the end for making contact with mill and bastard cuts.

From the Wikipedia:
"A File card is a brush with metal bristles, used to clean the cutting grooves in a file. (The name, "card", is the same as used for the "raising cards" (spiked brushes) used in woolmaking.)"

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

Thanks for letting me know what that file card brush was, I had seen that type of wire brush before but did not know the name.

I will try to find one tomorrow to use with the tweezers and the hot iron as well.

I really appreciate the time you give me Ed to learn more about what I need to do; others are learning a lot from you as well.

_________________
"Life is about learning"

P.S. The File Card works real well for cleaning the files - since it's what its for. Use it with those Valorbe Gardon files for certain to 'keep the edge'.

Done right, the brush will follow the file groves naturally and make files last a good bit longer and cut better.

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.

I bought the file card brush and used it to clean the the tweezers and the mill file as well, does a nice job of cleaning both.

I have backed away from flattening the wire, I found I was doing a better job by touching the solder wire to the heat as needed. So far, two turnouts completed, and they look very nice compared to my work with the hot iron. I have about 18-24 more to build of these #10 turnouts, then it is off to the double-crossover to build 10 to 12 of them (yoick!).

Practice, learn, practice more!

_________________
"Life is about learning"

_________________
NARROW Gauge MINDED
and Proud of it !!

I have returned to the method of flattening the solder wire and placing it on the tie first; seems to work better after much trial and error.

Normally, I just the touch the solder flattened wire on each side of the rail, once it starts to fluid I move the tweezers to the base of the rail and sit there for another 2-3 seconds, then I stop. While soldering, given the wire is already there, with my other hand I can push the rail down (not with my fingers, usually a small file) to the PC tie until the heat is gone. So far, the rails seem to be strongly attached.

In terms of wattage, I have had trouble at 60W, and seem to get better results at 120W. With the extra wattage am I doing well or adding too much heat?

I clean the tip with the brush often but I think I need to tin it to get it working better. I think I should do the work that Rio-Grande-Dan noted.

I am finding that using these assembly fixtures, and soldering, is the best way to go.

_________________
"Life is about learning"