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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:07 pm 
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Posts: 84
Thanks Ed, I asked PBL to send me a brochure. 300 Watts was what I had thought would prove better.

The American Beauty web page is great too. I sent them an email and they responded very quickly and were very honest and helpful as well.

Most of my work will be turnouts, but there will be wire connecting, some work on brass locomotives, and a touch of work in my auto restoration efforts.

Fast Tracks' discussion site has proven to be excellent to get the advice needed from great people; advice from experts goes far to help novices like me.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 1:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:45 pm
Posts: 16
Sam and Ed,

Just for a contrarian opinion, I have a 100 W Am beauty and haven't found anything I can't do with it. (Check MicroMark for a good price.) I have done some small scale brass assembly but nothing with large sheets. Ed, to your mind, what makes the PBL better? Also on the subject of greater wattage, I can see how a greater tip temp would be important when the metals get thicker, but even with code 100 rail, I can get it so hot so quick that I get hot fingers real fast and I'm only using it at about 60W most of the time. On large things, I've never attempted a long seam weld, just spot tacking to hold things together. Ed, can you give me a specific situation where you've needed the full 300 Watts? Not doubting your expertise - which is considerable - just interesting in learning more about how to use the tool.

Thanks,
Robert


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
Robert,

First I won't down play the American Beauty - I do have one as well. And certainly for most model RR usages in the mid and small scales, trackwork and detailing, 100 watt is quite sufficient.

I've scratch and kit built brass engines (HO scale). I also do 7-1/2" gage live steam models where seam soldering 16 gage and 18 gage steel plate. Most of the larger live steam work uses welding (DC stick, and wire, just started using a TIG set up) and Oxygen Acetylene torch techniques. I?ve found that the resistance unit with full 300 watts very useful with details accessories in the large scale work. It?s also been used in some heavy (brass and nickel silver) frames and boilers of some HO locomotives.

Sambear specifically asked about usages to include his auto restoration hobby. While his main intention is wiring work for the autos ? where 100 watts would be mostly sufficient for typical wiring ? there?s a host of other areas that would be helpful. Leading instead of bondo body work can be controlled much easier with a resistance unit than torch work (at least that?s my experience with flats and gondola cars in 1-/12? scale). My 800 lb 7-1/2? gage FA1 diesel has an all steel formed body from 18 gage steel plates ? heated ? and hammered to shape and soldered together in most seams. There is some welded tack in several areas. Smooth body form was completed with leaded fill using the resistance unit.

One aspect of a resistance unit is reserve power. (That?s also a critical factor in the irons as well). When doing large surface areas or a continuous seam ? the iron or resistance unit has to have extra reserve power to accommodate the solder point and prep heat the following seam point. If all you need to do is solder small scales rail to PC ties and add some brass castings to engines for detailing, the 100 watt system will be very adequate.

You can see my 7-1/2? gage stuff and the FA1 specifically on my web site.

http://www.coslar.us/


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COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
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I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:18 pm
Posts: 84
Ed put it very well.

My railway work will largely be dedicated to my HO layout, specifically wiring, building turnouts, and working on brass locomotives.

My autobody work will require some body panel welding (for which I plan to use MIG) and Metal Bond from 3M. For the some needed wire connecting I want to solder.

Both American Beauty and PBL make great systems, so the choice is very tough. Either resistance solder system will work well, but my preference is the PBL version.

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