Fast Tracks

Model Railroading Discussion Forums

Return To The Fast Tracks Website

The Fast Tracks discussion forums have been closed. Click Here for more information.

It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 4:04 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Forum locked This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 6 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Double slip switches
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:12 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2007 5:20 pm
Posts: 7
After building several #5 and#6 C83 switches, I decided to tackle a #5 C83 double slip switch. I don't know yet how it's going to work, but I'm writing this after just spray painting the assembly, ie it isn't installed yet. A few points: the instructions are very well done, especially if you've already done a few simpler turnouts and have followed the tips from the videos. I encountered a few problems--the frog angle on the new PointForm tool seemed to be too steep. I resorted to me older Frog soldering jig and used a #6 frog as a starting point. I don't know why this happened. I used my Zona razor saw to cut the railjoiners in half instead of a Dremel cutoff wheel. I still lost a couple on the floor! I found getting the points soldered in place the trickiest part because it is very difficult to keep the solder from wicking under the rail. You have to remember to leave enough room at the hinge end for the rail to close up. These point pieces are very short. I am concerned that their movement may be too stiff for a Tortoise. My meter tells me I have no electrical shorts. Hopefully that's correct.

I decided to post this because I am very excited about building this slip switch. I am no Master Model Railroader although I've been around the hobby for many years. I have had limited success building turnouts from scratch or hacking apart Shinoharas to make them DCC friendly. The FastTrack fixtures are incredible. So If you've been hesitating to try a double slip switch, take the plunge. If I can do it, so can you. Follow Tim's instructions and take your time.
Now I'm going to clean the paint from the railheads and start a second switch.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 1:14 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:48 am
Posts: 365
Location: East Texas - USA
Bill,

You will have to use a larger and more stout control wire on the Tortoise to control the four points on a double slip. Having fully hinged free moving points would be a greater help - but that's a fair bit more effort and skill to install and keep aligned properly.

Solder wicking can be controlled some by using a pencil and 'painting' where you don't want the solder to flow. (Also be careful not to have any flux wick to that area as well). The carbon in pencil led acts as a solder mask to a degree.

_________________
-ed mccamey-
COSLAR RR - http://www.coslar.us/
NMRA Standards and Conformance Department
PROTO & FINE Scale Coordinator
I estimate I have about 5 pounds of coupler springs somewhere in the vicinity of my workbench.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:27 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:39 am
Posts: 37
Location: Columbia, SC
Bill,

I use a full joiner to construct the hinge, then cut it to length just before soldering it to the rail.

Aslo, I don't use additional flux when soldering the hinge to the closure rail. I rely on the rosin flux in the wire solder to do it's job. It seem to alleviate the wicking problem.


Attachments:
HINGE READY TO BE INSTALLED.JPG
HINGE READY TO BE INSTALLED.JPG [ 33.52 KiB | Viewed 7339 times ]

_________________
Chuck Lobaugh
cfl9280@sc.rr.com
"oldsnowtop" ... A seller of switches on eBay
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:53 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Sep 15, 2007 5:20 pm
Posts: 7
Thanks for the tips. The use of a pencil to block solder flow is a great idea. I'm just about to solder on the throwbars for my second slip switch. This one is progressing better than the first. I notice that the solder sent with my order is rosin core. I thought I was supposed to use acid flux. Also, I spray painted the first switch as suggested in the videos for finishing turnouts. I haven't cleaned the points yet where they contact the rails so I'm not sure if I will have an electircal problem. I plan to power the frogs from either microswitches or 24v relays as I have on the rest of my layout. I haven't decided if I will use manual throws or Tortoise machines. Time for some experimentation!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 5:28 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:39 am
Posts: 37
Location: Columbia, SC
Bill,

No need to clean the paint off the points, the power is carried by the PC ties.

_________________
Chuck Lobaugh
cfl9280@sc.rr.com
"oldsnowtop" ... A seller of switches on eBay


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 6:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 3:11 am
Posts: 9
Location: Surrey, BC
Bill.

I also had trouble with solder wicking under the point rails when attaching them to the throw bar. I solved this problem by wrapping a strip of aluminum foil around the stock rail and firmly pushing the point rail against the stock rail before soldering. This method produced perfectly adjusted pairs of points which is a requirement of slip switches.

Wayne.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Forum locked This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 6 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 14 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group