| Attachments: |
|
File comment: Note the difference in the point taper length. Number 8 switch points.jpg [ 100.32 KiB | Viewed 11395 times ] |
| Fast Tracks http://fast-tracks.net/forums/ |
|
| #8 switch points http://fast-tracks.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=227 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | mhrcmr1 [ Thu Sep 08, 2005 10:06 pm ] | ||
| Post subject: | #8 switch points | ||
|
|||
| Author: | Tim Warris [ Fri Sep 09, 2005 11:47 am ] | ||
| Post subject: | |||
|
|||
| Author: | mhrcmr1 [ Fri Sep 09, 2005 12:40 pm ] | |||
| Post subject: | #8 switch points | |||
|
||||
| Author: | mhrcmr1 [ Fri Sep 09, 2005 1:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | #8 switch points |
| Author: | Rob [ Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | points fitting stock rail |
| Author: | mhcmr1 [ Fri Sep 09, 2005 10:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | #8 switch points |
| Author: | mhrcmr1 [ Sat Sep 10, 2005 10:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | #8 switch points |
| Author: | rob [ Sat Sep 10, 2005 5:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Stock rail preparations |
| Author: | mhrcmr1 [ Sat Sep 10, 2005 7:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | #8 switch points |
Rob, thanks for all the info. It really has helped me. From your last statement: [You do want to insure that when you filed the point rails that you remove (for N scale at least 1.5 inches of base.] Are you referring to the point rail? I have started removing more of the base rail on them after removing them from the filing jig. On the stock rails: I am removing the inside rail base to just beyond where the small triangle begins, about 1/16" inch or so beyond. Being new to handlaying I am trying to learn the right way first. Your experience and sharing of info is really appreciated. |
|
| Author: | Rob [ Mon Sep 12, 2005 12:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | stock rail/point rail interface |
Hello again, We are talking about the stock rails base, insure its flat all the way to the point where stock rail and point rails split. You don't want to remove too much rail base on the point rails because it will make it too flexible on the thinner portion of the rail. But you do want to make sure that you remove enough base so that when the rail closes it will sit flush. I believe depending on the turnouts points and length that its about 1 and 1/2 inch. There are three bends you need to make, two for the points, and one on the diverging stock rail. This bend in the diverging stock rail is almost no bend at all, very subtle. This helps it seat in the right groove which curves away. The other two bends are the point rail tips (approx the last inch or so) thats where the points are bent ever so slightly the same amount as the amount of material that was removed from the tips. That bend is just about an inch from the tips, (depending on how well you made the points in the point jig) Looking at it under magnification the bend point should be (looking at the rail head down) where the jig started to taper the points. If you bend it just right, the points will snuggle up to the stock rail, if you over bend it there will be a gap just past the tips, I use a needle nose and very gently nudge it. Good luck, have fun, and do use magnification. Rob |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ] |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|