Fast Tracks

Hi all,

I have been busy making a number of tracks using the fast tracks system. (good system for the novice like me)

Anyway when soldering I have noticed that i get largish blob of solder in the web of the rail which needs to be cleaned out (n gauge code 55), very time consuming. I thought to my self there must be a better method and that brought me to the conclusion, to tin the pc ties prior to soldering the rail to them.

This is how I do it. Do some practice piece first.

1. Prep and clean ties as normal.
2. Tin the ties on the face the rail will be attached to.
3. Place ties in jig.
4. Prep rails as needed and run a file along the bottom of the rail to clean it an remove any burrs.
5. Apply flux to both the ties and the base of the rail were needed.
6. Place rail into jig grooves (in the right place of course).
7. Hold the rail down firmly and heat the top of the rail (or the top side of the base flange which ever works best for you, I also hold the rail down with a scrap af fret work so as to aviod burning my fingers.)
8. Heat until the solder flows all around the base flange.
9. Continue to hold the rail down until solder has cured (Frozen or set dependenig on what term you use).
10. when done check and clean your work and admire some nice clean solder joints.

Cheers

Ray

PS:- I will upload some photos when I can find my camera.

I use a .125" wide tip from Micro Mark and .015 solder from Radio Shack. After applying a small amount of acid flux to the area of the tie where the rail sits, I place the tip on the tie where it meets the rail. It takes about 2 seconds for the flux to liquify before I touch the solder to the tie - rail seam.

Another 1 to 2 seconds and I can see the solder has been drawn under the rail to the other side. I draw the soldering tip away from the rail before lifting to pull any solder away from the tie avoiding the condition you mention.

Thanks Duckdodger,

I have noticed that this method does do a good job of drawing the solder away from the rial and leaves a small amount on the top side of the rail base flange which gives a strong joint I feel, as the solder captures the rail all around rather than just the bottom side, So I have been using this method a little as well.

I have also experimented with different tips and have found the fine conical tip to do the best job. Tim has recommended a fine conical tip in his videos and he is right on the money with that. I found that the larger tips tend to over heat the pc ties and cause delamination of the copper from the fibre glass.

I use this method when I tin the ties so it leaves a thin film of solder on the tie and so the rail can sit flat in the jig.

I have found also that my method is not very strong for the point rails as it seems ta fail and let go which is probably due to the small amount of solder that is used.

It all comes down to trial and error to find the best method that works for you.

Opps sorry thats thanks Duckdogger.