There are a lot of subtle nuances to this system. After about 6 feet, my solder joints looked a lot better. Since I tend to be heavy handed, I switched to .015 solder and that helped keeps the bubble size smaller.
The real issue is connecting the soldered sections. Such as where a curve transitions to a straight or visa versa. I have had some luck with making the transitions out of one length of rail by bending part of the rail and soldering it then soldering the unbent portion in the straight fixture. The key is determining where the tangent intersects the circumference. Some trial and error involved so far.
Have reverted to the rail joiners as the cutting/trimming precision required to achieve a good butt solder joint is proving to be beyond me. Not while the rail is in the fixture, but when the sections have to be joined on the road bed.
In error, I ended up with non- drilled ties strips but I chose to keep them even though FT offered to exchange them. Wow, that is some hard wood and the spikes bend easily. So I am drilling holes to facilitate spiking. Gluing would be simpler but I haven't figured how to accurately match the track's radi with the flexible tie strips. And Pliobond is so unforgiving.
All in all, this has been quite the adventure. Guys at the hobby shop think I am nuts for not using flex track.
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