An Alternative to Solid Soldered Switchpoints
By Tim Warris
Building trackwork with switchpoints soldered directly to the throwbar allows modelers to quickly and easily build turnouts that will work fine for years. But there are circumstances where this approach just isn't feasible; mainly in slip switches and three way turnouts where the points must be hinged as there is not enough rail length to allow for a solid switchpoint. Some modelers also prefer to have all of the switch points hinged in their trackwork.
This issue of the Fast Tracks newsletter will offer a simple technique that can be used for both hinged and solid switchpoints that allows the throwbar to freely pivot under the points. This is an alternative method to soldering the points solid to the throwbar. This method takes a little more time to build, but provides a durable, nice looking turnout.
This method involves soldering a small spike to the side of the switchpoint and pressing it into a hole in the throwbar. Once the spike is firmly in the hole of the throwbar, it is soldered to the points and will pivot freely in the throwbar. This method produces a very strong and durable switchpoint as long as care is taken to properly prepare the spike and throwbar. Here is how you do it.
Step 1
If you are using a Fast Tracks assembly fixture, then construct the turnout following the steps in the documentation, but do not solder the switchpoints to the throwbar. By the way, the images used in this newsletter are of an N scale code 55 #6 turnout to illustrate that this technique will work for the smaller scales.
Step 2
I use Micro Engineering Small spikes for this process. ME small spikes measure .025" in diameter and to get a good fit you need to drill the hole slightly larger than this size.
To accurately drill a small hole start with a drill bit that is one size smaller then the intended size; in this case a #72 drill, which is .025" in diameter. Use an awl or sharp point to mark the location of the hole in the exact center of the throwbar tie. Hold the drill in a pin vise and slowly turn it by hand until you have drilled completely through the throwbar, be sure that you start the hole EXACTLY in the center of the tie as the finished hole size isn't much smaller than an N scale tie. This is not that critical for larger scales.
Now using the next sized drill bit (a #71 .026") re-drill the hole. This will enlarge the hole size to the exact size of a ME small spike. You want to have a nice snug fit ? tight enough that you should need pliers to get the spike through the hole. If the fit is too loose, the throwbar tie will have a tendency to fall off while you are handling the turnout. Once the turnout is in place on your layout then it will be fine.
Step 3
Remove the turnout and the throwbar tie from the fixture (if you are using one) and using a file remove the copper cladding from the top of the throwbar tie. This will prevent accidentally soldering the points to the tie.
Step 4
ME spikes are blackened and will not take solder well unless all of the blackening is removed from the head of the spike. Use a small file and carefully remove the blackening from the head and sides of the spike. The spike should be nice and shiny when you are done.
Step 5
Press the spike through the hole and cut it off flush with the bottom of the tie. Use a file and file the bottom of the spike blush with the bottom of the tie.
Step 6
Place the throwbar tie and the turnout back into the fixture (again, if you are using one), and press the spike into the hole and onto the top of the base rail of the points. Liberally apply an acid based flux to the spike and rail. Solder the spike to the rail.
Step 7
Remove the assembly from the fixture. Space the points to your desired width; I use a tie to hold open the points and then mark, drill and place a spike into the second hole and cut off the bottom of the spike, file the spike flush to the bottom of the throwbar and solder it into place as before.
And you are done!
- Tim
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Have a question or comment about this issue of the Fast Tracks newsletter? Then post a reply! I will be happy to respond to any posts. - Tim